Everyone can appreciate antique design, especially as you get older. Antique foosball tables are not usually made for hardcore players, but they nail the visual aspect. They often have curved legs, wooden or golden details, carvings and elegant design. A table like that will naturally draw attention simply because of how unique it is.
It is also worth mentioning that not all models listed here all available on Amazon so I’ve added some to make the list a little bit more complete.
ANTIQUE FOOSBALL TABLE REVIEWS
Fat Cat Antique Foosball Tables
Fat Cat is the manufacturer than currently focuses on antique foosball tables the most. The highlight of their antique line is Queen series. Queen series is a series of antique foosball tables and it consists of 3 Fat Cat models – the Queen Victoria, the Queen Anne and the Contempo foosball table.
Queen Victoria Foosball Table
Made from solid oak, this antique foosball table lis incredibly sturdy. The highlight of this design are the legs of the table. The entire table is made from wood, it comes with counterbalanced men and 3-man goalie setup. Leg levelers and a proper ball return system are notable absences however.
Queen Anne Foosball Table
Another solid oak antique foosball table which is made after the Queen Victoria table, but with a special decoration across the cabinet. Solid oak won’t let you doubt the durability or stability of the table. And just like with previous model, Queen Anne comes with counterbalanced men, but lacks leg levelers.
Contempo Foosball Table
Not quite ‘antique’, but rather a retro style table.This table is made from maple woodand to look old, with decoration on the cabinet and wood carvings on the legs, which makes it look pretty nice. And you can choose between a single and 3 man goalie setup.
Bonzini Antique Foosball Tables
Now, what Bonzini manufactures is very different from previous models, but I decided to include them anyway.
Bonzini has its special style for foosball tables. Just take a look at the 2 drawer foosball table and the 12 drawer foosball table. Those two foosball tables could complement any living room.
2 Drawer Foosball Table
- Hand-painted men
- Sturdy & heavy cabinet
- Side ball return
- Safe for kids (telescopic rods)
- Polished aluminum goals
- No leg levelers
- Not a tournament material
- Small handles
12 Drawer Foosball Table
- Hand-painted men
- Sturdy & heavy
- Beechwood cabinet
- 12 drawers
- Telescopic rods
- Small handles
Sportcraft Antique Foosball Tables
Another brand manufacturing antique foosball tables is Sportcraft. All 3 tables are wooden, decorated with many details and carvings and they really look like antique furniture – Oxford, AMF Coliseum and Stadium foosball tables.
Oxford Foosball Table
- Hand carved foosball players
- Storage cabinet under the table
- Great design
- Side ball returns
- Metal drink holders
- big dimensions – needs extra space
AMF Coliseum Foosball Table
- Great design
- Entirely made from wood
- Traditionally made players
- Three men goalie
- Counterbalanced men
- Rounded feet on men
- Slippery handles
- Slow rods
Stadium Foosball Table
- Solid and heavy table
- Counterbalanced players
- Good price
- Great design
- Solid rods
- Players have rounded feet
Spartan Sports is a company based in Australia and they mainly produce football, rugby and cricket equipment. Hence their tables will suit casual players and kids.
SPARTAN SPORTS FOOSBALL TABLE REVIEWS
Spartan Sports 54″ Foosball Table
This Spartan Sports foosball table is fine in most regards. Not good, not special, just fine. It lacks some features that you would expect to see even in cheap models (proper handles or counterbalanced men), which is sad.
The overall quality of build is actually good, similar to American Legend Charger, like a tank 🙂 Table comes in two colors, cup holders, end ball return, leg levelers and other stuff not really important.
Overall, if you buy it cheap and you don’t expect this table to be professional table in terms of quality – go for it, it’s one of the better products in it’s category, but not much else.
- Easy to assemble
- Leg levelers
- Comes in two colors
- Relatively poor quality
- Quite casual table
Spartan Sports 50″ Foosball Table
This table is also made from the MDF. It is actually pretty similar to the table above. It has square legs which are connected with 2 bars, just like the Spartan Sports 54’’ foosball table. It will do for teens because of its color palette and overall design, but not much else.
- Nice design
- Relatively poor quality
- Lacks some basic features
Spartan Sports 48″ Foosball Table
The table is made from the MDF, ok looks and nothing else. Handles are bad and no le levelers. The fact that it comes with 3-man goalie setup is a minor positive.
- Relatively stable build
- Lacks basic features
- Nothing special about the table
Most tabletops are priced under $100. Stand-alone tables range anywhere from $100 to several thousand.
Mini foosball tables range between $100 to roughly $300.
Mid-level tables range betwen $400 to roughly $800.
Regulation-sized tables usually start at $1000.
Not crucial stuff
- Cup holders
- Ball return system
- Single goalie or three
- Scoring system
- Counterbalanced men
- Assembly time
American or European style?
American/Texas Style: “Hard Court” Foosball is known for its speed and power style of play. It combines a hard man with a hard perfect rolling ball and a hard flat surface, which enables precise/consistent positioning of the ball. Excellent lateral control in maneuvering the ball beneath the rod makes for awesome Pull, Push and Kick Shots. Tic-Tac Series and Power Passing are signatures of American style. Its most controversial trademark feature is the 3-man goalie rod. The American-made Tornado brought this style of play into popularity.
European/German Style: is characterized best by its enhanced ball control – particularly in the “pinned” position. Improved feel or touch is often used to describe this style of table. Euro style of play is known for the Front-pin series, Back-pin series, Reverses, Bank shots and Razzle Dazzle type shots. The Tournament Soccer brand table of the 70’s and early 80’s made this style popular in the US.
But the main difference imo is the preferred grip. American tables are heavy, hence most players tend to use snake shot.
Europeans use the same shot, but the grip is different. This technique allows players to ‘walk’ the ball easier.
Who’s it for?
This is a very important question to ask. Who will be playing it? How old are they? Are they beginner, intermediate, or at an advanced skill level?
If the table is for children, beginners, or casual play in general, then buying cheap will do, especially if you aren’t sure if they will like the game or not. If they don’t like it, no big deal, you won’t be out of a lot of money. Tabletops are great for little kids because standard-sized ones are too high. However it’s worth noting, that full-sized tables can also fit kids, but no tabletop will satisfy and advanced player 🙂
For experienced foosers, look for mid-level table so it can withstand play over a long period of time. Mid-level tables are more sturdy and made with higher quality materials. They are priced in the $500+ dollar range and suit those who play often and want to improve their skills. The heavier the table, the more stable it will be.
For those who are either highly skilled or want the ideal playing experience, only the top-of-the-line models will do. Usually it means getting one of Tornado tables. These tables are made with the highest quality of materials. They are also very heavy, some weighing more than 300 pounds. These tables are priced in the $1200-$2000 range.
Higher price usually means better quality of materials.
MDF is an engineered wood composite that is similar to particle board, but is much denser and stronger than particle board. Imagine if all of the sawdust was swept up from other wood product manufacturing processes, and then that sawdust was mixed with binders and pressed into large sheets the size of plywood.
If a table has particle board, then durability is going to be a concern. Particle board can deteriorate over time, which can loosen the screws, and lead to the table falling apart. How do you know if a table has particle board? If the walls are less than 1/2″ thick or the table weighs less than 70 pounds.
These tables are suited for those who just want a table for their kids to play with casually for awhile, or don’t want to invest a lot of money in one. However, what you gain in affordability, you lose in quality of play and durability.
Pressed wood/Composite wood
99% of tables currently available are MDF. Not every model, but most of them, it makes sence for manufacturers. Some of it is pressed wood, and can warp over time because it tends to absorb moisture. If that’s you concern, I would recommend going for one of outdoor models instead.
Thickness however is important, so make sure to buy one that is at least 1″ thick for more durability. Some of the higher end models are 1.5″ thick which helps eliminate movement so the game isn’t affected.
The three types of rods are hollow, solid, and telescoping. Hollow, steel rods are the highest quality. They are lighter, which allows users to play with more speed. This is ideal for very experienced players. Mid-level tables will often have solid steel rods, which are better for intermediates because the game is a little slower.
Some high-end tables have telescoping tubular steel rods, which consist of two pieces of metal. The inner piece slides into the outer, so it doesn’t stick out on the other side of the table. The benefit is that you won’t get poked by a rod from the opposite side. Very nice feature for kids’ safety.
A good alternative is the Rod Guard feature of Warrior Pro tables.
A full-size table is usually about 56Lx 30 W x 36H, plus you will need at least 5-10 feet of space around the table. Also factor in the playing the rods. Foldable tables can also be a nice solution if there isn’t much room.
The main benefit for having adjustable legs is being able to even the table on an uneven floor. The better tables have levelers for this purpose. This is a useful feature, but not a critical one.
Some tables come with counter-weighted men, meaning they stay in a horizontal position until the rod is turned. By staying horizontal, they are out of the way when you are shooting. This feature is valuable when only two people are playing (so you don’t have to lift them up every time you shoot from the goalie position).
Also, men can be plastic or metal. Metal is heavier, which gives you more power when shooting, but it’s worth noting that even the best professional tables come with plastic men 🙂
Oh, and if you see ‘robot-style players’: it’s just a newer design of players’ feet. Old design used to have square boxes, now it looks something like this
When you see counter-weighted men as a feature, that will tell you it’s a professional table, but it doesn’t mean you have to overpay just to get counterbalanced players.
Three-Man or Single Goalie?
The three-man goalie table has the goalie mounted with two other defenders. Most American tables use this model, while European tables are more known for a one-man goalie.
In reality this won’t affect the game and is only a matter of personal preference.
In my eyes, this table isn’t bad at all, it’s just that there are not so many redeeming factors for its place on the market. Garlando G-500 is marketed as a younger brother for Garlando World Champion that would fit casual and intermediate level players, who don’t take foosball really seriosly. And I keep repeating myself, but that’s exactly what I like and is absolutely inline with my vision of this website.
But unfortunately, there are just better tables out there (for this category). One could say that this table is much better than Garlando Open Air (which weights much less, hence G-500 is sturdier and won’t break during intense play). Well, this is absolutely true and a good reason to opt in G-500 over Open Air.
One could also say that G-500 has a better, ITSF recognized cabinet design than Kettler Weatherproof. And this is true as well, but depends on how much you care about similarity with tournament level tables.
Overall, this table is seven out of ten and has great design, but before buying it you should at least check other two tables in this category!
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One of the best brands out there, Garlando is well-known for their wide range of products: indoor and outdoor, coin-ops and small tables for kids, you name it. Also, and there is no official stats for this, but from my observations, it’s the most copied table, due to it’s simple and straightforward design.
Today we’re gonna take a look at one of the most popular Garlando models – Garlando Open Air.
High quality materials, well thought out design (ITSF recognized brand) and a reasonable price – holds true for most Garlando models. The biggest and the most obvious downside – it’s not heavy, so four adults in a bar wouldn’t enjoy playing on this table at all. But since it’s not designed for such circumstances, Garlando Open Air gets a free pass here.
On the opposite, it’s perfect table for families. Full-sized yet not too big, has telescopic rods (!!!) and a sturdy cabinet.
Essentially, this table combines some of the best features of different categories that I have on my website. It’s obviously a very good outdoor foosball table that can be easily used indoors as well, it doesn’t take too much space and it’s one of the safest foosball table for kids because of the telescopic rods.
Now, is it reasonably priced? Depends. For beginner and intermediate players, kids, or just adults who love the game, but never considered playing in tournaments – yes, it is actually a great deal.
Don’t buy this table if you are planning to practice for tournaments. First, there are no real tournaments on Garlando in US and even in Europe. Plus, most of the tournaments are played on Tornado, some on Warrior and only after that we have tournaments on EU tables outside of EU. In that case you’re better just spending your money on one of the traditional brands.
Overall, I’d say this table has won me over instantly. Yes, it’s not heavy, but it never really mattered to me, since i don’t own a bar 🙂 Otherwise – crazy sturdiness, portability AND I can easily transport it by myself or in a car? In reality it’s even better than it sounds 🙂
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Often times when playing offense I kinda feel like a cheat. The opponent goalkeeper is either bad and gets scored on almost every single time, or the game itself puts him at a disadvantage and he still loses. Which kinda robs the offense player of his full credit. But on the other hand – foosball shots from defense are extremely deadly.
On the opposite – you basically can never fail as a goalkeeper because the expectation is so low. And a good block feels like much bigger of an achievement. Plus, when playing in a bar or smth, it is better to be a goalkeeper. That way, if you’re good, you have a much clearer win condition. Imagine playing with your girflriend who is not soo good at foosball. No one would like to lose in a situation like that. But, you can do the ‘heavy lifting’ and carry the game from defense. Basically, a good goalkeeper can make or breake the game.
There are many more reasons why imho it’s better for you to play defense. But esseintially – not only can you block, but also exploit the huge amount of foosball shots that exist.
And the second part is what really insipred me to write this post.
1) Enemy 3 rod -> enemy goalkeeper -> enemy 5 rod
If you’re new to it, only focus on outplaying opponents 3 bar when shooting from defense. If you’ve never practiced your shots to go through 5 bar (5 bar is incredibly variable in terms of position plus stacked players. And at first you simply don’t have the necessary level of control over your shot to succeed). There are common tendencies, but that would be more suitable for a separate guide about 5 bar. Which in itself is a rich topic to explore.
You already have to shoot the ball through 3 bar and 2 goalie rods, so allow 5 bar to rely on chance. Make sure the shot is executed properly.
2) Spray > Square
When shooting 2 bar pull shot from the goal, every technical aspect is the same as with the 3 bar. What changes is the viability and hierarchy of available shots. Here’s what I mean: on 3 bar long pull shot to far post is obviously associated with squaring technique. This is basically the cornerstone of your game. If you can shoot that, all other foosball shots won’t help you.
But on 2 bar you very rarely are forced to use this shot. I don’t mean it’s not important, it’s just that since the battle happens between your single dude on 2 bar and his single dude on 3 bar. It is better for you to not focus on long squares. And it’s not even the right terminology, since it’s 90% dead bar shot. This topic often comes up on foosball.com forums.
So tl;dr – squaring may be better to outplay opponent blocking you on 3 bar. But spraying is a superior technique for hitting the goal.
3) Mid > 1 and 5 posts
Spraying is also very handy if you’re trying to hit somewhere around the middle of opposing goal. Every noob goalkeeper starts off with positioning his goalie at one of the posts (1 or 5), plus center is such a wide and tricky area to defend against any foosball shots. And sprayed balls are even more deadly. Abuse it, unless it is getting figured out by your opponents.
Also ‘mini kicks’ are a really good way to shoot, as in, instead of doing the full push or pull, you kick the ball lightly and then finish off with a shot. There are many more examples like that.
5) Don’t be that player
One thing I strongly dislike is when people roll the ball to ehm the high ground/ramps (on Tornado the equalent of that would be a slow pass from the dudes on goalkeeper 3 bar to 2 bar and then shoot) and shoot when the ball rolls back. Or people play of the wall too much. It sucks to be a prisoner of your very own next shot. It will get blocked.
So if previous four were do’s this is a giant don’t. It is a very bad habit that obviously mainly players from Europe are guilty of , but what is the real problem is when you allow the balls position dictate what shot you will execute. Your opponent on 3 rod has eyes too and he also knows what shots are possible from the current position.
First of all, thanks to everyone for comments and upvotes, really preciate it. The format I used before (pick a subject and try to gather all thoughts in a structured manner) was really time consuming and it fits more for reviews of foosball tables. I was trying to write some sort of textbook for beginners, but I’m not sure anyone other than veterans of the game or real hardcore people would go through it all.
So for this one I’ve decided to just give two or three general tips and maybe go in-depth, but not as crazy as in my last posts. I’ll go over ‘traditional’ tips first and then move to my personal, perhaps a bit unconventional, tips. These should work on any foosball table.
So bare with me :>
Numero uno is rather abstract, but it is essential to playing 3 rod and offense in general – to win real games you need more options than your opponent.
On a very basic level I would put it like that: your opponent goes left – you go right. And in reverse. If you can’t go right – you lose.
I don’t know if you’re familiar with metagame/dynamics of many 1 v 1 sports, but this principle is universally true from chess to boxing. At some point you will meet an opponent with a similar skill level to yours (equal, in theory). That is where you find out what really works and what is just a bad habbit you were geting away with all this time.
In foosball offense player on 3 rod always has options where to score and goalkeepers job is to narrow down your options. It is not really difficult to learn how to recognize and shoot open holes on any foosball table. Tough part is having the discipline and the skills to be able to exploit any open hole at any given time.
My personal rule is that if you can shoot long pull shot (for instance) 8-9 times out of ten – consider you’re on the right path.
Second advice that I don’t see anyone give to noobs: work on your wrist!
Just put the ball near the center dude on the 3 rod and freakin move the player around the ball as fast and for as long as you can! This incredibly simple drill will improve your ‘foosball flexibility’ a ton! I guarantee you will be surprised by how easy it will be for you to control the players after you put some time into the ‘helicopter’.
That is how good Collignon was in 2008, ten years ago!
Number three is the most unconventional, but even if I’m just stupid and completely wrong, you can still take away something.
‘Multistepness’ is imho the best quality your 3 rod can have. I’m talking about executions consisting of multiple passes and ending with a shot. Vast majority of foosball shots (on any foosball talble) are simply about moving the ball from it’s current position and shooting immediately. This totally makes sense because of the natural advantage you have as an offense player who ‘triggers’ the events and forces the goalie to react. But my point is different. If I had to teach a child how to score, I would first explain the enormous advantages you get by simply moving the ball, and how you can make the goalkeeper play catch-up all the time.
The current position of the ball dictates all the upcoming events, it narrows the range of shots goalkeeper has to block. Needless to say that if he doesn’t respect and ‘follow’ all emerging possible shots when you dribble the ball around, he will probably get scored on.
Now, to me the current ‘meta’ of foosball, where snake/pull shot are so dominant, simply points on the sad state of human perception organs :> It basically means, that only one motion out of the current position of the ball is enough to create the space and open up the holes needed to score. If you ask me, foosball prior to 90s and 00s was the real deal. Viability of pull kick meant that offense-defense relations on foosball table were much more about mind games, rather than playing odds and reflexes. At least it was a two-part shot.
But hey, this doesn’t mean that playing defense now is pointless or not interesting :>
The second thing is that we are not obliged to exclusively shoot such simple and straightforward shots. This ties up nicely to my initial point that “multistepness” (I know, as a foreigner I don’t have the right to torture English like that, I’m sorry :>) is the quality that can inspire people and help win games. Pull/snake are your bread and butter, yet sometimes they just won’t work. But if you think about it, constantly changing the ball position, dribbling tic-tac and constantly reversing the ball’s travel vector (please, forgive me) is uncounterable.
On each step of our routine/execution (that is trained in advance) you are in control and can choose whenever to release the shot, depending on how the goalkeeper “follows” you. Add the fact that from any spot on the foosball table there are usually numerous ways and directions you can shoot.
And the last, fourth concept goes something like this: shots that have ‘cutback’, that redirect the balls movement are increadibly deadly.
This is something my soccer coach explained to me many moons ago. One of the toughest shots for goallkeepers in european football to catch are the headers from the corner. Simply because you redirect the travel trajectory of the ball. I couldn’t find any article or even a proper youtube video to explain better, but I have found this.
And the best I could find from real world
Just notice how goalkeepers from the last video so often can’t do anything but stare at the ball. In the first clip the ball gets redirected twice which leaves zero chance to the goalkeeper. This is just human nature and it works on a foosball table.
So yeah, this is basically it for today. The whole thing took me much less time to write than the previous guides, so hopefully, if this way of expressing my thoughts proves to be better, I’ll post more often. Cheers!